May 2023 - USA travels MO, KS, CO, UT, NM

I travelled southern Colorado in the autumn of 2009, 2010 and 2011, camping along the Arkansas River and in the national forests, missing my van to sleep in the woods, although now finding heaps of campers on the road, especially high-end conversion vans!

31 May 2023 Wednesday - Alamosa Colorado to Taos New Mexico
Dark clouds and wind then rain for drive south into New Mexico. Route 160 to 285 with roadworks and one-way road delays on both routes 285 and 64 near Tres Piedras. Interesting house architecture on route 64 which I researched and found to be earth ship biotecture autonomous building design with some for rent! Then a stop at the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge 650 feet above the river, second highest bridge on US highway system and fifth highest in US constructed in 1960's. With my fear of heights, I only walked partway across, enough to see the river, plus it was raining!

30 May 2023 Tuesday - Alamosa Colorado
Alamosa is on the Rio Grande River in the San Luis Valley surrounded by two mountain ranges (the Sangre de Cristos and the San Juans) with ten peaks that reach higher than 14000’ above sea level (‘Fourteeners’). Drove the 35 miles to the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, originally established as a National Monument in 1932, the highest dunes in the USA. In order to climb the dunes, you must cross the very wide shallow Medano Creek which peaked during the past few days due to heavy snow melt and with surge flows. So I opted to enjoy views of the dunes instead of a climb of 755 feet up Star Dune and walked the short walks in the park. Plus it was very crowded even early in the day and when I departed there was a queue at the gate. It has become a playground with folks setting up tents on the beach of the river and sandboarding on the dunes and camping in the full campground…and so much rubbish everywhere.

29 May 2023 Monday - Silverthorne to Alamosa Colorado (171 miles)
Another gorgeous sunny drive via I70 then route 91 over Fremont Pass 11360’ then route 24 through the town of Leadville, a Victorian-era mining town…former home of the Unsinkable Molly Brown (she survived the Titanic). Continued on route 285 over Poncha Pass through Buena Vista then route 17 where I stopped at Joyful Journey Hot Springs, much too busy for me on this holiday weekend. I had camped here in 2010 and 2011 in an empty field, where there are now teepee and yurt accommodation.

28 May 2023 Sunday - Silverthorne Colorado
Morning hike on Perimeter Trail along Dillon Reservoir lakeshore of Frisco peninsula. Mountain biking is very popular in Colorado and they are everywhere. It is best to do hiking in morning as by midday a storm appears and sometimes it rains and sometimes not!

27 May 2023 Saturday - Silverthorne Colorado
Drove the dam road over the dam for a morning hike to the Old Dillon Reservoir built in the 1930’s. It was replaced in 1963 with the new Dillon Reservoir fed by the Blue River. They relocated the entire town of Dillon and the hydroelectric plant. The water from this reservoir flows through the 23 mile Roberts Tunnel (completed in 1962 after sixteen years of construction) under the Continental Divide to Denver. Visited the town of Frisco (one mile of many shops and restaurants) and not too busy, then visited Breckenridge which was very busy. Over Swan Mountain Road to hike loop trail at the Sapphire Point Overlook with stunning views of the Dillon Reservoir and the Gore and Tenmile mountain ranges (and there was a wedding at the lookout point). Then to visit the town of Keystone, which is not really a town but a ski resort, then to Dillon. Final stop at Whole Foods for a delicious organic salad.

26 May 2023 Friday - Steamboat Springs to Silverthorne Colorado (90 miles)
Another beautiful drive on route 40 over Rabbit Ears Pass at 9400’ then turn at Kremmling on route 9 to Silverthorne which is at 9000’. I did not realize that this area included the towns of Frisco, Dillon, Breckenridge, Keystone, a ski destination close to Denver. First time that I have encountered parking fee at the hotel. The headlines of the news for this holiday weekend stated that the traffic out of Denver and returning on Monday will surpass previous records, with over 26,000 vehicles driving through the Eisenhower Tunnel (50 years old this year) on Friday and Monday. And there is an REI and Whole Foods!

25 May 2023 Thursday - Steamboat Springs Colorado
Walkabout downtown and along the Yampa River and at the Yampa River Botanic Park. The Botanic Park started out as a horse pasture, then in the early 1990's, a local English couple created the six acre garden with its unique design of berms and no straight lines.

24 May 2023 Wednesday - Steamboat Springs Colorado
Wonderful morning at Strawberry Park Hot Springs owned by a Chicago businessman Don Johnson who purchased it from the city in 1981, once a ‘hippie haven’ in the 1970’s. Originally a homestead site, the land around the springs was donated to the town in the 1930’s. It is about seven miles from town but the last two miles are on a narrow dirt washboard road. Four hot pools of varying temps (99-110 degrees, source is 140 degrees and cooled by the river) are surrounded by stone masonry and right on the Hot Springs River. A new booking system started in 2020 where you book a two hour time slot but only pay the $20 cash when you arrive (fifty folks allowed per two hour window between 10 and 8). Had great chat with two women, one from San Francisco who was visiting her friend from Park City. I walked the grounds to suss out the accommodation of cabins and covered wagons, which only have a bed, no water and no electricity, with toilets and showers in a separate building. Just as I left after midday a big storm arrived then left just as quickly. Visited the local thrift shop Lift Up and Natural Grocers and Ace for free popcorn. Returned to hotel to find a homemade salad for me from the receptionist!

23 May 2023 Tuesday - Steamboat Springs Colorado
Early morning encounter with a raccoon who had been having a great time in the rubbish bin, found by a worker tossing the hotel rubbish. And there are signs everywhere that the bears have awakened! Drove to Fish Creek Falls and walked trail to overlook, the falls is roaring down due to the heavy snowmelt. Then walkabout downtown to the library and the parks (with sites of former hot springs since destroyed by road construction) and along the Yampa River which is also flowing quite heavily. Spent afternoon booking hotels for the next week, not an easy thing to do, especially because it is a holiday weekend.

22 May 2023 Monday - Vernal Utah to Steamboat Springs Colorado (163 miles)
Still driving east into the sun! Another gorgeous day with less haze than yesterday. Back into Colorado along route 40 which runs south of Dinosaur National Monument with some beautiful rock formations. Several Point of Interest stops include Musket Shot Springs, Blue Mountain, the ‘I Do’ fire of 1988, Maybell with vanloads of young folks ready to raft the Yampa river, the Johnson homestead of former governor Edwin, Craig (coal mine and power plant in midst of shutting down, not good for small town in middle of nowhere), Yampa State Park. Beautiful drive along the Yampa River, with recent flooding in several areas.

21 May 2023 Sunday - Salt Lake City to Vernal Utah (162 miles)
Morning drive east into the sun! And very hazy, which I have since found that northern Utah is one of the worst for ozone/particle pollution. Or it could be from fires in Oregon and Canada. Drove over Parley Summit at 7120’ through Wasatch Mountains on I80 then route 40/191. Another summit at 8000’ through the Uinta National Forest past Strawberry River and Reservoir, heaps of open land. And then a much needed car wash.

20 May 2023 Saturday - Salt Lake City Utah
Morning walk to FHL for the last time to view church records on microfilm that are only available at this location. After six days doing research non-stop, decided to leave early and enjoy the warm sunny weekend day. First stop, a delicious hot dog at J Dawg, then to explore Ken Sanders Rare Books where there was a lively street market, such fun. Followed the music to Washington/Library Square for the 37^th annual Living Traditions Festival with international music on three stages plus food and vendor wares from around the world. My intent was to just visit the city library, not knowing that the festival was happening. I also did visit the library, a five story beautifully architected building full of windows. The historic Salt Lake City and County Building also located on Washington Square has been the seat of city government since 1894. It was designed to rival the Temple as the city’s architectural centerpiece.

19 May 2023 Friday - Salt Lake City Utah
Met with Suzi again with whom I had new finds then with Beth for additional new finds, now time for more research on my own with all their suggestions. The largest Costco in the world is about three miles down the road but I think that I will give it a miss.

18 May 2023 Thursday - Salt Lake City Utah
Met with Suzi who I had worked with on Monday for the Kohl line and today for the Tagger line because she is also skilled in DNA. We may have found that our Tagger folks came from Marne Germany. Returned to hotel for late lunch then back to downtown for walk through the City Creek Mall which I pass everyday but had not visited. They have a Nordstrom where I had shopped for years but such a different inventory today, nothing in which I have an interest! Then enjoyed the Tabernacle Choir (360 volunteer members) rehearsal session at the Tabernacle which is advertised to start at 730 but they opened the doors at 715, this is an event every Thursday evening.

17 May 2023 Wednesday - Salt Lake City Utah
Met with another researcher today to work on US research. There are so many folks available to assist with varying levels of skill and knowledge in a specific area. Most are missionaries who have been trained and others are accredited or certified as Professional Genealogists. Spent time looking at books in both the US library on level 3 and the International library on level B2. Took a break from research and visited the museum next door. Each day I walk a different route but there is so much construction that I need to change my route when sidewalk is closed. Beautiful old architecture in this city with many markers to identify the history of the buildings. 

16 May 2023 Tuesday - Salt Lake City Utah
I worked on our Tagger line with another German researcher today but he said again that I need to know the village of origin and that I should find more US records that may give to me a clue, for which I have already done quite a bit of research before coming here. Stopped at Harmons grocery on return to hotel, much like a Whole Foods (but family owned) with a big deli, so had a great salad.

15 May 2023 Monday - Salt Lake City Utah
Walked the one mile to the Family History Library, hoping to learn more about our German lineage. The library was totally renovated during covid and is quite impressive. A discovery center is on the first floor with large screens to educate folks about their ancestors. The upper two floors are dedicated to US research with one floor of computers and another full of books. The same thing for the lower two floors for international, one of computers and another of books. You find a desk with two large screens and request the type of researcher with whom you want to work. Today I focussed on our Kohl line but unless you know the exact village/parish in Germany, you may not find much. Our Kohl was from Trebnitz but there are nine in Germany/Poland. Perused many records on microfilm, which are now digitized, but could not find his birth record.

14 May 2023 Sunday - Moab to Salt Lake City Utah (234 miles)
Overcast then heavy rain on the pass into Salt Lake City then sunshine in SLC then another thunderstorm in SLC late afternoon with a rainbow over the city. Drove route 191N to I70W then route 6 via Carbon Corridor (towns of Price and Helper (named after 'helper' engines which helped trains make the steep climb) known for coal and railroad industries. Beautiful drive following the Price River canyon/railroad over Soldier Summit 7477' and then it just poured, not easy driving with so much traffic with big puddles on road. Afternoon walk to explore the Temple grounds.

13 May 2023 Saturday - Moab Utah
Hot and sunny and in the 80's, too hot for walk in the desert, so opted for swim in the pool and walkabout downtown. Found great organic food store with fresh salads, wonderful! Have been sidetracked with new information on grandparents of my adoptee friend so spent too much time this afternoon doing research, not good since I will spend the next few days at the Family History Library doing the same for our family.

12 May 2023 Friday - Arches National Park Utah Moab Utah
Last evening I was able to obtain Arches timed entry permit for 7am entry as soon as bookings opened at 6pm. Only four national parks have this requirement at this time as of beginning of this year but that may expand as they learn more about this pilot. You may enter the park before 7am or after 4pm without one so decided since I awoke early this morning to just leave and arrived at park at 530 as the sun was rising (nice rock photos) with no queues (which still do exist during busy times). Gorgeous 22 mile drive through the park with many stops and a few hikes. Met two women from Sacramento and we hiked the loop around the Windows. As I departed the park, the queue for entry was very long at the gate and several folks parked at the entrance, not knowing about the permit requirement. Walk to town for veggie burger at Gloria’s.

11 May 2023 Thursday - Cortez Colorado to Moab Utah (160 miles)
Morning rain which turned to a sunny gorgeous day for drive into Utah. Side road (route 133) of 22 miles to Needles Overlook of Canyonlands with almost 360 degree view of sandstone formations and Colorado River...and no one else around. Continued on route 191 with stops at Wilson Arch and Hole 'N' the Rock, a roadside attraction of a home carved out of sandstone cliff created by Albert Christensen in 1940. When he died in 1957, the site was open for public tours, fifteen minutes at $6.50, but I gave it a miss. A swim in the hotel pool, first outdoor pool I have seen in awhile, most have been indoor. Walkabout of downtown Moab (visit to info center and library), a very busy town, and managed at 6pm (when they open online reservation system for next day) to get a timed entry ticket for Arches for tomorrow 7am ($2 reservation fee).
I travelled this area in April 2014 but drove a different route today. In 2014 I drove one of my most challenging drives, the Moki Dugway, and also visited Goosenecks State Park, Monument Valley, Natural Bridges, Capitol Reef.

10 May 2023 Wednesday - Mesa Verde National Park Colorado (78 miles)
Sunny day for visit to Mesa Verde National Park then rain and wind and cold after I returned. This park was established to preserve the archaeological sites built by the Ancestral Puebloans who inhabited Mesa Verde for more than 700 years (550-1300 AD). It is about 25 miles on a very steep narrow winding mountain road, but paved, although several rock slides! With all the stops at overlooks and walkabouts at the cliff dwelling areas, it took me over five hours. You cannot visit the actual dwellings without a guide, and guided tours start next week, but may not be fun for me as trails are steep and uneven with steps and ladders at 7000' elevation.  A few of the roads are also closed for repairs…but still did see quite a bit.

9 May 2023 Tuesday - Montrose to Cortez via Telluride Colorado (158 miles)
I will not drive the Red Mountain Pass/Million Dollar Highway (and may never) but will opt for the San Juan Skyway via Telluride!
Heaps of roadwork on route 550 south then turned onto route 62 at Ridgeway for drive over Dallas Divide (9000’) then turn at Placerville for route 145 to Telluride, which I last visited in 1983. Walked the town and visited the historic New Sheridan hotel where I had stayed which is now undergoing renovations.  So much growth here with many new homes. Also drove through the multi-million dollar homes of Mountain Village where a friend of mine had a house right on the ski slope.  Continued on route 145 for scenic overlook of Mount Wilson then Lizard Head pass at over 10000’ and so much snow. Beautiful drive along the Dolores River canyon before arriving Cortez where I could not check in to the hotel because major internet outage due to broken fiber near Durango caused by construction crew. I had considered changing hotels but the choice was not great so patiently waited for a few hours when they finally decided to let me into room without having a key. System finally restored Wednesday morning about 3am.

8 May 2023 Monday - Montrose Colorado
I last visited Montrose forty years ago for the 10th Annual Telluride Bluegrass Festival. At that time there was no airport in Telluride so you had to fly to Montrose and catch a ride. I ended up in a van with the David Grisman Quartet, performers at the festival, and enjoyed their music for the ninety minute ride over the mountains, what an experience!
Today, it has all changed so much. I stopped at the visitor center before enjoying a walk along the Uncompahgre River at River Bottom Park and a hike up to Sunset Mesa for views of the city. This is also the location of the Water Sports Park, a thousand feet of the river channel devoted to kayakers etc. Today the fire department was doing their rescue training on the river. 
This river was saved in the early 1900s by the building of the 5.8 mile Gunnison Tunnel to divert water from the Gunnison River in Black Canyon...the longest irrigation tunnel in the world when built in 1909. And could not resist visit to Grand View Cemetery on top of the mesa, those dead folks have the best view in town.

7 May 2023 Sunday - Salida to Montrose Colorado (129 miles)
Drove route 50 over the Monarch Pass at 11,312 feet (Mount Evans is the highest road pass) and it was snowing but no wind gusts, and I was on the inside of the road next to the mountain and not the edge with no guardrails! I had avoided this pass in my van in years past. The road over the summit was completed in the 1930's. The pass also crosses the Continental Divide. Continued drive to Gunnison, just gorgeous. Stopped in Cimarron for views of the canyon and a rail museum. Walked the paths at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, where there were few visitors and very steep craggy cliffs, a bit overwhelming for me with fear of heights. Many walks out to the cliff along the six mile rim road.
I am now finding that national parks require timed entry permit so may have to give Arches a miss because they are fully booked three months in advance...but Mesa Verde does not yet have timed entry. So glad that I did all my travelling when there were fewer folks travelling and not everything is a must-see for me.

6 May 2023 Saturday - Salida Colorado
Morning walkabout of downtown and along the river with performers in the park and SUPs/kayakers on the river and an Asian festival and the Makers Market (local artists) at Scout Hut, and found a few books at the sale at the library, and even saw deer in the neighborhood.  Unfortunately the Salida Hot Springs Center is closed for maintenance this week. They are known as the hottest in Colorado and non-sulfurous (no smell). I met a woman living in her 1990 Dodge Roadtrek, a bit more ragged looking than mine, she was selling her tie-die wares in the parking lot! Free popcorn at Ace Hardware, and a few groceries at Natural Grocers and Safeway.

5 May 2023 Friday - Colorado Springs to Salida Colorado (119 miles)
Happy cinco de mayo and full (flower) moon! Beautiful drive along the Arkansas River on route 50 with many stops at the recreation area sites on the river. Afternoon walk through a field surrounded by all the mountains. Salida is at 7000', founded in 1880 on the banks of the Arkansas River. With over 100 turn-of-the century buildings, it is the largest National Historic District in Colorado...beautiful old buildings in downtown. Salida lies amongst the mountain ranges of Sangre de Cristo to the south and Mosquito range to the north, and the Saguache/Sawatch range to the northwest (surrounding area has 12 Fourteeners)..

4 May 2023 Thursday - Colorado Springs Colorado
Cold, rainy, windy morning which turned to sunshine for afternoon walk to Otero Park, walking up these hills has taken some getting used to at this elevation!

3 May 2023 Wednesday - Colorado Springs Colorado
Washed clothes, washed car, and filled up with petrol at Costco! Then great visit with woman with whom I worked at IBM in Juneau Alaska. We shared stories of our genealogy research and our lives and people in Juneau. She is originally from Colorado and has spent time visiting the family homesteads and gravesites here. 

2 May 2023 Tuesday - Colby Kansas to Colorado Springs Colorado (233 miles)
Early departure driving route 25S then 40W entering Colorado and Mountain Time while still in Kansas. Four counties in western Kansas are on Mountain Time.  Passed several more wind turbine farms and oil rigs. In 2017 I had done extensive research on our family throughout Kansas and returned today to again visit the gravesite of the brother of our great grandmother. He died in 1869 of chronic diarrhea while his father was stationed at Fort Wallace Kansas. Stopped at historical markers commemorating both the Butterfield Overland Trail and the Smoky Hill Trail, on which our ancestors may have travelled, because he was also stationed at Fort Washakie Wyoming, where our great grandmother was born. Then route 94W to Colorado Springs, very rough road and no services for seventy miles, had to 'hold it'! Beautiful views of the mountains and Pikes Peak as I arrived into Colorado Springs (at almost 6000 feet elevation), nice change from the endless plains of the past few days.

1 May 2023 Monday - Colby Kansas 
Gorgeous sunrise over the plains of Kansas and calmer winds. Morning visit to the visitor center and the library and the museum, then a walk in the park. Colby is known as the Oasis on the Plains at over 3000 feet elevation. Taking a break from the past very busy several days to catch up. I have the DeLorme map books for most western states except Colorado and just found that the Barnes and Noble in Colorado Springs does have one! It is so difficult to do online shopping with no address so was very happy that they had one in stock and put on hold for me.